Alicia Buteau
UMBC Faculty-Led: Tolkien and Lewis in Oxford
Major: English
Pre-Departure Post
Ello!
Please feel free to read the following entries in a British accent for the full effect. I’ll do my best not to use too many “British terms” I’ve picked up from one too many rewatches of Harry Potter, The Great British Bake Off, and Peaky Blinders, but no promises. To introduce myself, my name is Alicia Buteau, and I’m a senior at UMBC majoring in English with a minor in Creative Writing! Starting tomorrow, I’ll be taking part in the faculty-led “Tolkien and Lewis” course in Oxford, England. Considering my major, my love of stories, and my long-time obsession with anything fantasy, I genuinely couldn’t have picked a more perfect class for myself.
Studying abroad has always been a dream of mine. Traveling is one of my biggest life goals, but I didn’t think it would be possible while also being a student-athlete. I’m a member of the UMBC Swim and Dive team, and our packed schedule of training and competitions during the school year made semester-long study abroad programs pretty much impossible. That’s why I was so excited to see this course offered over the summer and even more thrilled when I realized it was centered around two literary giants: J.R.R. Tolkien and C.S. Lewis. I say all this to highlight just how grateful I am for the way UMBC structures its study abroad programs. They really do make it possible for students from all backgrounds and schedules to participate. The fact that this program not only aligned with my academic path but also fit into my summer was a huge win for me.
One of the first things I did to prepare for the trip was, of course, get the books. We’ll be reading Tolkien’s The Lord of the Rings trilogy and C.S. Lewis’s Space Trilogy, both of which, surprisingly, I had never read before. As a self-proclaimed book nerd, I’ve felt a mix of embarrassment and excitement about that. On one hand, I can’t believe it’s taken me this long to get to these beloved classics. But on the other hand, I couldn’t imagine a more fitting time and place to dive into them for the first time. What better way to experience them for the first time than through a course in the very city where these authors wrote and wandered?
In true Tolkien fashion, I spent the past few weeks walking. A lot. I’d alternate between physically reading the books and listening to the audiobooks while strolling around nearby parks. I even came across some wild creatures (cats) on my journeys! If you’ve read The Lord of the Rings or even just started it, one of the first things you’ll notice is how much Tolkien loves to make his characters walk… and walk… and then walk some more. So in true Tolkien fashion, I have prepared myself for this trip by strolling. I am being completely honest when I say that one of the things I’m most excited about is class itself. I’m so eager to learn more about these novels, study the inspirations behind them, and spend time in the very places where they were written.
I’ve only been out of the country once before, when I visited one of my best friends in Sweden. On that trip, I had a layover at Heathrow and remember being so sad I didn’t have time to leave the airport. Now, I’ll be landing in Heathrow and staying in the UK for two full weeks! Even though the trip is fairly quick, I have made sure to spend extra time with my loved ones. Just last night, I went to an Orioles game (despite being a Braves fan), which felt like a fun and fitting way to wrap up my final time at home. I’ve already planned ways to keep in touch, though I know the time difference will make that a little tricky. Still, I want to be as present as possible during these two weeks and really soak up the experience. That’s where this blog comes in. It will be just as helpful for me as I hope it is for you. I’m looking forward to writing these posts so I can look back on my trip and maybe even help someone else who might be considering a study abroad program like this one. 
I want to live in the moment and experience all that I can in these next two weeks. This is something I know I’ll look back on in the future, and I want to be able to say I enjoyed it to the fullest. I’ll be bringing my journal to write down as much as I can, and a few cameras to document every library, every quiet street, and every meal. Packing has been a huge feat for me, and it truly never gets easier. But alas, it’s done. So, as I sit here staring at my (finally) packed suitcase, I feel a mix of nerves and excitement. It’s definitely a little scary traveling internationally without any close friends or family, but I’m thankful to already know a few of my classmates, which makes the whole process a lot more comforting. Beyond that, it feels very surreal to be sitting here writing this first entry. I am eager for what’s to come and incredibly grateful to get to share this journey with you. While this is just the beginning, I know I’ll be writing you a goodbye soon enough. But for now, I’m off to grab my passport as I leave you with a ‘see you later’ and a cheers!!
In-Country Post #1
Ello from England!
It’s hard to believe it’s already been a week since I arrived in Oxford. I feel like I just got here, and yet I’ve already done so much! Two weeks doesn’t feel nearly long enough to soak in everything this magical city has to offer. Every street and building feels like it holds a thousand years of stories, and no matter how much I learn, it never feels like enough. But I’ll do my best to catch you up on some of the highlights and thoughts from my first week here.
To start, my favorite British terms that I’ve picked up so far have to be “fancy,” “cheers,” “stunning,” “pop in,” and “rubbish.” Now that the important part is out of the way…
We began our trip with a workout by hauling our bags across Oxford’s charming (but very uneven) cobblestone streets to our hotel. Once we settled in, we quickly learned there would be no AC. Normally, this wouldn’t be a problem in England, if it weren’t for the heatwave that decided to arrive with us. Still, we pushed through and quickly changed into shorts.
On our first full day, we went on a walking tour led by our amazing guide, Richard, who introduced us to the history of Oxford and the many colleges that comprise the university. I loved learning fun facts about C.S. Lewis and Tolkien’s lives here. It provided us with so much context for the work we’re studying in class. We then grabbed lunch at The Wig and Pen before visiting the Oxford Castle and Prison, which was fascinating and a little eerie. And yes, I already managed to spend way too much money on books that first day, making my wallet nervous as well.
The next morning, we went punting, which, if you haven’t heard of it, is kind of like a gondola ride but with a long metal pole instead of a paddle. It was such a fun way to see the river, and we even passed some swans! The rest of the day was spent exploring and figuring out the buses (and adjusting to the fact that they drive on the left side here, as I keep looking the wrong way before crossing the street).
On Monday, we officially started class and had a great discussion on Tolkien’s work. It was so helpful to already have some background from walking the city where he lived and taught. After class, we visited three museums from our syllabus. My favorite was definitely the Botanical Gardens. The “Plants in Literature” section and the Alice in Wonderland path, which was written right here in Oxford, were my favorite parts. It felt truly magical. Tuesday followed a similar rhythm with class in the morning, then visits to another museum, followed by a cozy evening playing card games in the hotel. Honestly, it seems like every day here becomes my new favorite. After each one, I find myself wondering how anything could possibly top it, only to be surprised again the next day.
Today we toured the Bodleian Library and the Radcliffe Camera, which happen to be two places I’ve always dreamed of seeing. If you’re anything like me, you’d recognize the Bodleian from its appearances in the Harry Potter films, but even without that connection, the libraries here are just stunning. We were lucky enough to get an after-hours tour, and it was an absolute treasure, much like the libraries themselves.
Spending time here, I totally understand why so many iconic writers came out of Oxford. There is something deeply romantic and inspiring about this city that makes you want to learn, write, and slow down enough to notice the world around you. Every corner seems to hold a story, and every street has something new to teach you. Some of the things I’ve learned have come just from taking the time to really look around and absorb it all. To note a couple of things, the colleges at Oxford aren’t divided by subject like many people think, and pubs aren’t how they sound but instead are cozy gathering places that have quickly become some of our favorite spots to relax and get together in.
While the heatwave made our first few days here a bit warm, I honestly wouldn’t change a thing. We were lucky enough to get one rainy day so far, and hopefully we’ll get a few more before we leave. There’s something about gloomy weather that makes Oxford feel even more alive. It’s the kind of place where overcast skies somehow enhance the mood, making it feel dark, dramatic, and intellectual in the best way. I’ve been loving class, loving this city, and feeling so lucky to experience it all. I truly can’t recommend studying abroad enough, especially if it brings you to a place like Oxford. I definitely fancy it here, that’s for sure.
I’m looking forward to sending my next update as I spend my final days here (which feels crazy to say), but until then…cheers!
In-Country Post #2
Ello again!
I’m happy to be writing to you, but also a bit sad, because it means more time has slipped by that I’m not ready to say goodbye to. If there’s one thing I’ve learned during my time in Oxford, it’s that there’s never a dull moment and never enough time to do it all. Every day here feels like I’ve been dropped into the pages of a history book, a fantasy novel, and a travel guide all at once. My feet are incredibly sore, and I’m usually running on mostly tea and chocolate, but I wouldn’t change a thing.
To get you caught up, let’s start where we left off. On Thursday, some of my classmates and I started our day with a visit to Christ Church. We grabbed our audio guides and wandered the grounds on a self-paced tour. The Great Steps and Great Hall, the real-life backdrops and inspirations for Harry Potter, were absolute highlights for me. Still, even if I’d never seen the movies, the grounds themselves would’ve blown me away. Afterward, we headed to New College to see another iconic filming spot. We admired the famous “ferret tree” and gave it plenty of love before grabbing a quick lunch and heading to class later in the day.
The next day, we had no class, so of course we hopped on the train to London. It was only about two hours and super easy. When we got there, I actually split off from the group to meet up with one of my best friends who’s studying abroad in London! It was so great to see her and catch up. Plus, having someone who knew the city a little better than I did was a lifesaver, as London can feel a bit overwhelming. We spent the day popping into bookstores (I bought more books and tote bags that I absolutely do not need) and wandering Borough Market. If you’ve ever seen those chocolate-covered strawberries online, they are just as amazing in person as they are online.
Later, I met back up with my classmates, and we all went to Shakespeare’s Globe to see Romeo and Juliet… cowboy edition! It ended up being one of my favorite and most unique experiences of the trip, a bucket list item I didn’t even know I had. After the show, we grabbed a bus and headed home. We got back pretty late due to the evening performance, but still managed to end the night dancing in the empty streets.
On Saturday, our class took a trip to visit The Kilns, the home of C.S. Lewis. We walked around the property, which was full of wildlife and berry bushes (blackberries and cherries)! I hugged a few trees for good measure and took in the peacefulness that must have inspired so much of his work. Inside the house, one of my classmates even played an original piano, which felt like stepping back in time. We ended the visit at Lewis’s grave before heading back to Oxford. That night turned into a much-needed quiet evening with room service pizza and a movie.
The next morning, we took a coach to visit Sarehole Mill, which is known to have had a huge influence on Tolkien when he was young. He even donated to preserve the mill because it was such a big part of his childhood, so much so that it went on to inspire pieces of The Lord of the Rings. After our guided tour, we had lunch at The Dark Horse before heading back. Once we were home, my roommate and I grabbed tea and then split up to shop for souvenirs. To end the night, I grabbed dinner and sat by the river on the Christ Church grounds, watching the punts drift by. I didn’t realize at the time that this would be my last normal day on the trip.
I am now, sadly, sick and contagious enough that I have to stay in my room and skip the last couple of classes and outings. It’s definitely a bummer, but my classmates have been amazing. They’ve brought me meals, checked in on me, and kept me updated on all their activities! Even with this ending, I feel so lucky. I got to check almost everything off my Oxford bucket list, and now I just get to rest with lots of tea! I hope you’ve enjoyed following along with my Oxford adventures. Next time, I’ll be sharing my final days here and the journey home.
Until then, cheers!
Return Post
Ello for the final time!
I truly cannot believe it is time for me to be writing my final blog for my trip to Oxford. It feels hard to put into words what this experience has meant to me. I sadly don’t have all that much to catch you up on regarding my final days in my course at Oxford, as I was sick for the last few days. I spent them in our hotel, finishing up my final project and classwork while drinking loads of tea. My classmates were angels and helped to bring me snacks and plenty of soup.
On their final day in Oxford, my class visited Magdalen College, home to an amazing deer park with various kinds of fallow deer. They spent the day exploring the grounds and ended the night with dinner at our favorite pub, King’s Arms. While I was sad to miss out on such a fun last day, I loved hearing about it from my classmates and seeing all their pictures and videos. I could not be more thankful for what I got to experience in Oxford, and luckily, I was able to do almost everything I had hoped to while I was there.
The next morning, we grabbed our things and headed to our farewell breakfast. Thankfully, I was no longer contagious and could tag along with the group again. Breakfast was spent with final bites of traditional English breakfast and even more tea. During it, we sat around and talked about our favorite moments from the trip. Reflecting on what surprised us, whether it was each other or culture shocks, and hearing everyone’s personal story with Oxford is one of my favorite memories.
After our plates were cleared, we headed to the airport and said goodbye to our professor and IFSA leaders. However, much like The Lord of the Rings, our journey did not end where you might expect it to. After making it through the airport and to our gate, we sat through delay after delay before our flight was finally cancelled. This was the only part of the trip that didn’t go as expected. I was thankful to be on a flight with many of my classmates, so we worked together to find hotels and rebook flights for the next day. It was a very long day and night for sure.
The next morning, we made our way to the airport (again). This time, our flight took off on time, and we made it home without many issues. Getting back, it was so nice to see my friends and loved ones again. I am so thankful to have so many people in my life who make leaving extra hard. Coming home to flowers, my favorite snacks, and my own bed was absolutely the highlight of my return.
Looking back on my time in Oxford, it’s hard to put the experience into words. Since coming home, my friends have asked how the trip was, and I usually just say, “Yeah, it was great!” But that barely scratches the surface. There’s so much I could share, and I never quite know where to begin. I want to tell them about Tesco and the meal deals we practically lived on. The constant swarm of bikers and the rivalry that seemed to exist between them and pedestrians. How the only advertisements in Oxford were subtle posters for plays, concerts, and lectures. I want to tell my friends about the best sushi spot in the city center. Or how if you grabbed a quick lunch, you could walk down to Christ Church and eat by the river while watching the boats pass by. I think about how peaceful nature felt, even in the middle of all that incredible architecture, and how the birds chirped outside my window each morning. I’d tell them how inspiring it all was. How pubs like The Eagle and Child or The Lamb and Flag are etched in my memory. The same places where Lewis and Tolkien used to meet, and where the Inklings formed the friendships that shaped The Lord of the Rings.
I want to tell them all of these things about this amazing place, of course, but I also want to tell them about the friendships I made. The most unexpected part of this trip for me was the people I got to meet and grow close to. To each and every person who was abroad with me, I am so incredibly grateful to have gotten to know you and to have shared this experience with you. Thankfully, I’ll be in class with many of my classmates, and we already have plans to meet up very soon, so it is not a goodbye but a see you later for now!
I remember being a kid and dreaming of going to England. Now I can say I didn’t just go, but I studied abroad there. And that feels surreal. Thank you for following along with me on this adventure. Oxford will always hold a piece of my heart, not just for its history and beauty, but for the memories, laughter, and people that made these two weeks unforgettable. So for the last time… cheers mates!