Lacey Wilburn
UMBC Faculty-Led: Art and Power in Japan
Major: Ancient Studies, Visual Arts – Animation
June 4, 2025: Pre-Departure
Hello!
My name is Lacey Wilburn. I am a rising junior currently pursuing a BA in Ancient Studies and a BFA in Animation at UMBC! Considering the nature of both my majors, I figured this program in Japan would be beneficial for me. Learning about art and history while getting the chance to explore cool historical sites?? I’m in heaven. Or, well, going to be in about 5 days. This trip has been on my bucket list for years, and I can’t wait to finally make it happen!
Funny enough, the first time I ever got a tiny taste of Japan was actually at Disney World of all places—specifically at the Japan pavilion in Epcot. For as long as I can remember, it was always my favorite pavilion to visit. Even though I knew it wasn’t authentic Japan, it was still a big part of my childhood (Shoutout to younger me for having great taste in travel goals). So, of course, when I visited the pavilion on my most recent Disney trip, I had to take a pic with my mom!
Packing for Japan has been both exciting and overwhelming. There’s just so much to consider! June marks the beginning of Japan’s rainy season. The weather will be warm, but it is also very likely to be wet and incredibly humid. With that in mind, I’ve tried focusing on bringing layers and plenty of comfortable essentials. I invested a lot in more quick-drying fabrics, which will be a lifesaver during this time of year. Walking shoes were also a top priority! This trip involves a lot of walking, especially around temples and cities. I’m planning to bring pairs of broken-in sneakers and sandals for convenience (especially since many places require you to remove your footwear indoors). Other must-haves include universal travel adapters, a power bank for my phone, my journal, and a crossbody bag. It is required for all foreign tourists to carry around their passports, so a crossbody will be super helpful with carrying everything I need. Japan also has a strong cash culture, so I got these super cute fish coin purses! I’m thinking about naming the big one Frederick, but I’m not so sure about the smaller one (who I am assuming is his son). Frederick Jr. seems a little too on the nose, but I’m sure I’ll figure it out.
Spinning back to that journal I mentioned, I decided I wanted to challenge myself artistically while on this trip. For every day I am in Japan, I want to make at least one drawing from life in my journal. It could be a sketch of a statue, the people walking by, a temple, or just a sunset that I enjoyed, anything really! I think it would be a nice way of allowing myself to really enjoy the moment and the things I was seeing. In my opinion, you really learn to appreciate the details of something when you try and draw it. You get to know every inch while attempting to replicate it on paper. When one thing is off, you feel it, and it’s like a puzzle trying to figure out how to make it right again. I’m looking forward to just sitting for a little while and observing the things around me. Of course, in my infinite wisdom (procrastination) I created a super cool and awesome playlist for myself and these exact moments which will be linked below…
https://open.spotify.com/playlist/0JQZBOdiEjT9zR7bK6i3bM?si=Fq8QEp7jQkKs_N2TCEYZbA&pi=6wMFRTVOQ86Uc
As the countdown gets shorter, the excitement is definitely kicking in! But I’d be lying if I said I wasn’t a little nervous. The total travel time is roughly 18 hours (this includes both flights and a layover). This is the longest I’ve ever traveled both in time and distance! My in-flight movie lineup is starting to look like a whole film festival. My mom seems even more nervous than I am. It’s going to be so weird to be in a different country without her. I’m so used to following her around and doing whatever itinerary she had picked out, but now the roles are reversed. She’s the one who’s going to be following ME around! Just in the form of an AirTag location and some daily concerned text messages. That won’t last long, though. She planned a trip with a few other family members to join me in Japan after my program is over, so that’s going to be super cool!! For now, all that’s left is to take a deep breath, triple-check that I have everything that I need, and trust that the trip of a lifetime is just one INCREDIBLY long flight away.
See you in Japan!
June 11, 2025: In-Country
I finally made it to Japan! Touching down at the airport after what felt like an eternity of travel was honestly surreal. From the moment I left my house to the second I stepped into my hotel room, over 27 hours had passed. Between layovers, airplane meals, trying (and failing) to sleep in awkward positions, and lugging my suitcase through unfamiliar terminals, I was completely drained.
Today was my first full day here, and what a way to kick things off! Despite arriving just yesterday and dealing with the time difference, I had to be up by 8:30am for my first class. Surprisingly, the jet lag wasn’t too bad—just a slight sluggishness that hit me in waves throughout the day. I think the mix of adrenaline and anticipation helped override some of that grogginess. After class, we headed out to explore Nara, one of Japan’s most historic cities. Our first stop was the famous Nara Deer Park! I’d seen pictures and read about the deer that freely roam the grounds but seeing them in person was something else. They’re incredibly bold—some will bow to you for food (which is adorable), while others will nudge you persistently until you give in. One even stole our guides ice cream cone! I mean the nerve! It was such a fun and chaotic experience. Honestly, I could’ve spent hours just hanging with them.
From there, we made our way to Tōdai-ji, and let me just say—pictures do not do it justice. The Daibutsuden (Great Buddha Hall), is one of the largest wooden buildings in the world. You don’t realize how huge it is until you’re standing in front of it, craning your neck just to take it all in. And once you step inside, boom—there he is: the Great Buddha, or Daibutsu, sitting in total zen while towering over everyone like he owns the place (which, to be fair, he kind of does). This Buddha is absolutely massive. I think my jaw actually dropped. It’s got this serene, all-knowing face looking down on tourists taking selfies and toddlers throwing mild tantrums. The vibe was very much “eternal enlightenment meets school field trip” but still very cool!
After marveling at Tōdai-ji, we took a quieter turn and headed to the Nara National Museum. After narrowly escaping being mugged by a pack of hungry deer and staring up at a Buddha the size of a house, this museum turned out to be the perfect palate cleanser. Inside, there were intricately carved statues, paintings, and some truly intense-looking guardian figures that definitely looked like they could come to life and challenge you to a duel if you tried sneaking a photo. That was the hardest part of this museum. So many cool things but not allowed to take any photos of them! By the time we wrapped up at the museum, the jet lag started creeping in again. My feet were sore, and I could feel that post-travel haze starting to settle in. Still, I was content. There’s something really satisfying about being tired from a full day of exploration—it’s the good kind of tired, the kind that comes from learning, experiencing, and just being present in a place that’s completely new to you.
Tonight, I plan to take it easy—maybe grab some ramen or onigiri from a nearby convenience store and just chill. There’s so much more to see and do over the next few weeks. Today was the perfect start!
June 18, 2025: In-Country
So, I’ve officially been in Japan for about a week now, and it’s been interesting to say the least. I recently left Nara and have just arrived in Kyoto. I’ll be honest—I miss it Nara more with each passing day. I find myself thinking back to the free-roaming deer. Their chaos felt way more peaceful than the constant motion of city life here…oh well! Let me catch you up on what you’ve missed!
I had the chance to visit Ise Shrine, which is one of the most sacred Shinto shrines in all of Japan. The buildings are rebuilt every 20 years as part of a Shinto belief in renewal. It was a super cool place to visit but allowed no pictures! So for now it only exists in the inner machinations of my mind. Sigh. Sorry Instagram.
Another highlight was Horyu-ji Temple, one of the oldest wooden buildings in the world. The temple complex is not only architecturally impressive, but incredibly historically rich. The wood from the central pillar of the pagoda is estimated to have been retrieved in 594! To put that in perspective, that one piece of wood is 1,182 years older than the United States. Really makes you remember how young we are!
I trekked through Nara Park on our free day. What began as a casual walk turned into a crazy side quest. Wandering without a set destination, I found myself in a forested trail filled with deer, shrines, and weathered statues that were being eaten by the landscape. I eventually stumbled upon a mountaintop temple, where the rain, incense, and silence combined into a moment of overwhelming peace. It’s hard to explain how it felt. But it gave me space to slow down, breathe, and simply be present in the moment. I’d gladly get lost in that forest again—though next time, I’d bring snacks for the deer (they were jumping me baaaddddd).
So after my super mystical and magical adventure, Kyoto felt like getting hit by a bus. There are tourists everywhere. Literal waves of them. Our professor ominously warned us that “Tokyo is so much worse.” At this point, I can’t even fathom what “worse” means. I’m just gonna assume everyone just travels like a stacked human centipede. There’s no way there’s enough space for anything else. Kyoto still has its charms, though. There’s so much to do, especially compared to Nara. First off, the arcades here are no joke. My roommate and I spent hours playing Dance Dance Revolution in a multi-floor neon jungle of flashing lights and incredibly locked in locals. I’ve never felt more uncoordinated in my life. My roommate was a total pro and I probably looked like I was stressfully Irish dancing to EDM music. The shopping streets in Kyoto are completely bonkers too. One minute you’re walking past traditional fan shops and hand-dyed kimonos, and the next you’re inside a “U.S. surplus store” that’s selling replica M16s and Red Bull. There’s something hilariously surreal about standing in Japan, surrounded by Route 66 signs, looking at a shelf of Harley Davidson shirts labeled “Very American!” It’s like a funhouse mirror version of the U.S.. I wonder if this is how they feel when we have Japanese style tattoos or shirts with their characters on it. Hmmmm….
Kyoto also has some really cool shrines too! Located atop Mount Hiei, Enryaku-ji feels like a world away from the crowded streets of Kyoto—even though it’s just a short trip out of the city. As I climbed higher, the temperature dropped, and a thick mist began to settle over the trees, adding a super ethereal quality to everything. It was still ridiculously hot and I was actually melting by the end of it but still really cool!
I also managed to see Fushimi Inari-Taisha. You’ve definitely seen this place before: thousands of bright red torii gates lining paths that snake up Mount Inari. I actually think it’s one of, if not the most photographed spots in Japan! What no one tells you is that it’s not a nice stroll—it’s a hike. Like, “question your life choices at the third shrine station” kind of hike but totally worth it (just don’t do it when it’s 102 out like I did oof).
Last but not least: Kinkaku-ji! Kinkaku-ji is one of those places that looks too pretty to be real. It’s like someone copy-pasted a golden temple into a postcard-perfect forest and called it a day. When I rounded the bend and saw it in person, I audibly said “Oh wow,” along with a dozen other tourists in stereo. I had to fight like 12 different selfie sticks to get a decent pic. It was actually insane.
So yeah—Kyoto may have hit me like a bus, but at least it was a culturally enriching, neon-lit, DDR-blasting bus. It’s a lot but in a kind of incredible way. If Nara taught me how to slow down and breathe, Kyoto’s teaching me how to sprint between ancient shrines and vending machines and somehow still find awe in both. Next time you hear from me, I’ll be writing from Hiroshima! Can’t wait to keep you posted. 🙂
Bye!!!
June 25, 2025: In-Country
Hello again!
As our time in Kyoto comes to a close, it’s hard to believe how quickly everything has flown by—and how sweaty we’ve become in the process. Kyoto in June is no joke. The heat and humidity have reached near-mythical levels, the kind where you start to wonder if you’ve been swimming through the air rather than walking. But somehow, we’ve powered through the last few days of temple-hopping and castle-exploring with our water bottles in one hand and little fans in the other.
Despite the heat, we managed to squeeze in some final gems before leaving the city. Ginkaku-ji, also known as the Silver Pavilion, was a serene send-off. The contrast between the simple temple and the meticulously groomed moss gardens and raked sand was super interesting. Ginkaku-ji doesn’t try to overwhelm you like its golden counterpart, but allows you to appreciate the grounds more. I was definitely sweating through every layer of clothing, but the peaceful atmosphere almost made me forget. Almost.
We also visited Nijō Castle! Home of shogunate drama and squeaky floors. The so-called “nightingale floors” chirp as you walk, a security feature designed to expose potential intruders—but for us, it just added to the immersive experience. Inside, the fusuma (sliding doors) were painted with dramatic images of tigers and pine trees. Fun fact about the tigers: since they aren’t native to Japan they only had their pelts to come up with what they looked like! So that’s why they look a lil goofy in some ancient Japanese art. Even though we were all slowly dehydrating, it was hard not to be impressed by the sheer attention to detail some of these rooms had.
Speaking of dehydration, we visited Osaka Castle next and that was just on a whole nother level of heat. Before we even reached the castle walls, we were bombarded with heat exhaustion warnings. Despite the oppressive sun, we made the trek up to the castle’s observation deck. While the interior was more of a modern museum than a historical interior, the view from the top was panoramic and worth every slippery stair.
Once we got back to Kyoto we caught a shinkansen (bullet train) to Hiroshima. Japanese public transportation is honestly magical. Their speed, comfort, and punctuality turn travel into something you actually look forward to. Hiroshima greeted us with a steady, somber rain which immediately set the tone for things. There’s a kind of quiet weight that hangs in the air in Hiroshima, and the rain just underscored that feeling. The visit to the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum was incredibly interesting. It’s not an easy place to walk through. The exhibits were sometimes difficult to process. I remember a person in the museum had to be taken out on a wheelchair from how emotional they were.
The next day, we took a ferry out to Miyajima Island, famous for the “floating” torii gate of Itsukushima Shrine. Most of the group explored the main area together, but I decided to wander of f on my own and I’m so glad I did. I followed a side path that wound its way up the mountain and stumbled upon Daisho-in Temple. Tucked into the forest, with prayer wheels, mossy stairs, and hundreds of expressive little Jizo statues. A little farther up, I found Chokugan-do Temple, along with a small Buddhist temple hidden further still among the trees. These places weren’t crowded, weren’t loud, and didn’t have souvenir stalls. So far in my time in Japan, these are the best spots to find.
Now, I’m writing this while watching the countryside blur by once more. We’re on another bullet train, this time headed for Tokyo. I don’t know exactly what to expect, but if Kyoto was spiritual and historical, and Hiroshima was all introspective and emotional, I have a feeling Tokyo is going to be something entirely different. Fast, bright, loud—and probably still very humid.
Until next time!! Byeeee
July 1, 2025: In-Country
After weeks of temples, trains, and way too much konbini food (just kidding—there’s no such thing), I’ve officially wrapped up my study abroad program in Japan. It honestly still doesn’t feel real. I’ve seen so much, learned even more, and somehow still feel like I barely scratched the surface. The final leg of this journey brought me through Tokyo, Yokohama, and Kamakura. Even though the schedule was jam-packed and the days were long, I couldn’t have asked for a better way to end this chapter.
First stop: Tokyo. It’s everything you think it’s going to be—neon lights, bustling crosswalks, vending machines that sell just about everything, and people moving in every direction at once. The energy of this city is completely unmatched. As soon as we rolled into town, I made a beeline for the Godzilla Store in Shinjuku. If you know me even a little bit, you know this wasn’t just a casual visit—it was a full-on pilgrimage. I’ve been a Godzilla fan since I was little, so to stand in a store entirely dedicated to the King of the Monsters was awesome. Figures, posters, t-shirts, mugs, plushies—basically every kind of Godzilla merch imaginable. There’s even a giant Godzilla head looming over the Toho building, roaring at unsuspecting pedestrians. So you know I took way too many pictures from every possible angle.
We also visited the Yasukuni Shrine. This wasn’t an easy stop. It’s one of the more politically complicated places we’ve visited, and it carries a lot of historical weight but that’s exactly why I appreciated it. Yasukuni feels different from other shrines we’ve seen. It’s not just a spiritual site, but a symbol of national memory, identity, and in a lot of ways, controversy. It sparked a lot of thoughts that I’m still processing. The shrine’s grandeur and calm surface contrast deeply with the conversations it provokes. I left with more questions than answers, but I’m still really glad I went.
One of the highlights of our last week was a day trip to Yokohama, which honestly surprised me in the best way. It has this peaceful, seaside-city vibe, but still feels modern and full of life. We went up to the Sky Garden, which is on the 69th floor of the Landmark Tower. The view was absolutely breathtaking. From up there, the city looked like a miniature model—tiny boats drifting in the harbor, skyscrapers rising and falling in rhythm, and even a theme park with a roller coaster winding around below. Unfortunately, it wasn’t clear enough for us to see Mt. Fuji in the distance but we did get the chance to catch the sunset which was totally worth it. We also stumbled into an illusion museum nearby, which turned out to be way more fun than expected. Think optical tricks, warped mirrors, and those impossible perspective rooms where you suddenly look like a giant or a hobbit depending on which corner you stand in. I probably took more goofy photos there than I did at any temple. At one point I was “climbing” out of a shark’s mouth, and the next thing I know I’m being carried by a sparkly anime French guy.
Then there was Kamakura, our final field trip—and what a send-off it was. We visited the Daibutsu, or Great Buddha, who sits calmly and stoically under the sky, as if he’s been patiently waiting for centuries (because… he kind of has). There’s something truly humbling about standing before such a massive, ancient statue. He’s weathered by time and nature, yet remains so serene and dignified. After that, we headed to Hase-dera, a temple tucked into the hillside overlooking the coast. The entire path was bursting with hydrangeas, their colors spilling over stone walls and staircases like nature’s own confetti. We wandered through mossy gardens, rows of Jizo statues, and breezy wooden halls that smelled faintly of incense. I’ve seen so many temples during this trip, but Hase-dera was by far the most beautiful.
And just like that, the program’s over.
But here’s the twist—I’m not leaving Japan just yet! My family’s flying in and we’ll be staying an extra two weeks to travel, eat more ramen, and try not to get lost in the train stations (again). I’m incredibly excited to share what I’ve learned and loved with them, and maybe even act like I sort of know what I’m doing here now. As much as I’d love to keep this blog going and update you all on the rest of my travels, this is where we part ways. From the bottom of my heart, thank you for following along. Whether you read one post or all of them, I hope I was able to bring a bit of Japan to wherever you are.
Until the next adventure!
Signing off,
Lacey 🗾🌸🦖